An amplitude equation for surface gravity wave-topography interactions
Name
PhysRevFluids.3.124802.pdf
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2.56 MB
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Adobe PDF
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Author(s)
Thomas, Jim
Yamada, Ray Akitsugu
Date Issued
December 2018
Journal
Physical Review Fluids
Publisher
American Physical Society
Citation
Thomas, Jim, and Ray Yamada. “An Amplitude Equation for Surface Gravity Wave-Topography Interactions.” Physical Review Fluids, vol. 3, no. 12, Dec. 2018. © 2018 American Physical Society
Version
Final published version
Abstract
We derive an amplitude equation that captures the effect of small but arbitrary topography on small-amplitude surface gravity waves. The robustness of this reduced model is demonstrated by numerical simulations that compare it with the fully nonlinear water wave equations. The amplitude equation is seen to accurately capture intricate and complex wave dynamics, compared with the fully nonlinear equations, while being much faster than the latter. Consequently, the model offers great potential for various surface wave-topography interaction investigations, especially when a large number of simulations are needed to obtain wave statistics, a process that is much slower if attempted using the full set of equations.
MIT Department
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences
Terms of Use
Article is made available in accordance with the publisher's policy and may be subject to US copyright law. Please refer to the publisher's site for terms of use.
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DOI of Published Version
https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevFluids.3.124802
