Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic responses to surfzone seafloor perturbations
Name
958832868-MIT.pdf
Description
Full printable version
Size
16.52 MB
Format
Adobe PDF
Checksum (MD5)
780586cec4883059800fa1a078c93b8c
Author(s)
Moulton, Melissa (Melissa Root)
Advisor(s)
Steve Elgar.
Date Issued
2016
Publisher
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Abstract
Holes and channels were excavated in the surf zone on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, and observations of the subsequent evolution of waves, currents, and the modified seafloor were used to investigate nearshore dynamics. In one set of seafloor perturbation experiments, deep holes with steeply sloping sides were excavated in the inner surfzone seafloor. Observations of the infilling holes were used to make the first field estimates of the surfzone morphological diffusivity, which describes the rate of seafloor smoothing by downslope sediment transport. To improve the temporal resolution of bathymetric estimates, a mapping method was developed to combine infrequent, spatially dense watercraft surveys with continuous, spatially sparse in situ altimeter estimates of the seafloor location. In another set of seafloor perturbation experiments, channels were dredged across the surf zone with the propellers of a landing craft. Alongshore variations in wave breaking caused by the perturbed bathymetry resulted in strong rip currents in the channels under some conditions, whereas alongshore currents bypassed the channels under other conditions. The dynamics of the circulation response for changing wave forcing, bathymetry, and tidal elevation are investigated using the observations, a numerical model, and a parameter based on wave properties and bathymetry.
Description
Thesis: Ph. D., Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2016.
Cataloged from PDF version of thesis.
Includes bibliographical references.
Subjects
Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering.
Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.
MIT Department
Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences
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