Setup in the surfzone
Name
230937720-MIT.pdf
Description
Full printable version
Size
11.27 MB
Format
Adobe PDF
Checksum (MD5)
b1f1ba6eb984df28161cdfab2c6c68f1
Author(s)
Apotsos, Alex
Advisor(s)
Britt Raubenheimer.
Date Issued
2007
Publisher
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Abstract
Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum balance used to predict setup, a one-dimensional (1-D) model is developed that includes wave rollers and bottom stress owing to the mean offshore-directed flow. The model predicts setup accurately at three alongshore homogeneous field sites, as well as at a site where the incident wave field is alongshore non-uniform, suggesting that setup is driven primarily by the cross-shore (1-D) forcing. Furthermore, alongshore gradients of setup can be important to driving alongshore flows in the surfzone, and the 1-D setup model predicts these gradients accurately enough to simulate the observed flows.
Description
Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2007.
Includes bibliographical references.
Subjects
/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering.
Civil and Environmental Engineering.
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.
MIT Department
Joint Program in Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering
Terms of Use
M.I.T. theses are protected by
copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but
reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written
permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission.
copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but
reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written
permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission.
Persistent DSpace Link
