Locating Value in Artisan Cheese: Reverse Engineering Terroir for New-World Landscapes
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Paxson_Locating value.pdf
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Author(s)
Paxson, Heather Anne
Date Issued
August 2010
Journal
American Anthropologist
Publisher
American Anthropological Association / Wiley
Citation
Paxson, Heather. “Locating Value in Artisan Cheese: Reverse Engineering Terroir for New-World Landscapes.” American Anthropologist 112.3 (2010): 444-457. ©2010 by the American Anthropological Association
Version
Final published version
Abstract
Terroir, the taste of place, is being adapted by artisan cheesemakers in the United States to reveal the range of values—agrarian, environmental, social, and gastronomic—that they believe constitute their cheese and distinguish artisan from commodity production. Some see themselves as reverse engineering terroir cheeses to create place though environmental stewardship and rural economic revitalization. But a tension is produced: while warranting projects of reterritorialization through defetishized food production, terroir marketing may risk turning the concept of “terroir” into a commodity fetish. U.S. terroir talk reveals attempts to reconcile the economic and sociomoral values that producers invest in artisan cheese.
MIT Department
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Anthropology Program
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Article is made available in accordance with the publisher's policy and may be subject to US copyright law. Please refer to the publisher's site for terms of use.
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DOI of Published Version
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1548-1433.2010.01251.x