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Steve Elgar. Moulton, Melissa (Melissa Root) Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences 2016-09-30T19:37:25Z 2016-09-30T19:37:25Z 2016 2016 http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/104594 958832868 Thesis: Ph. D., Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2016. Cataloged from PDF version of thesis. Includes bibliographical references. Holes and channels were excavated in the surf zone on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, and observations of the subsequent evolution of waves, currents, and the modified seafloor were used to investigate nearshore dynamics. In one set of seafloor perturbation experiments, deep holes with steeply sloping sides were excavated in the inner surfzone seafloor. Observations of the infilling holes were used to make the first field estimates of the surfzone morphological diffusivity, which describes the rate of seafloor smoothing by downslope sediment transport. To improve the temporal resolution of bathymetric estimates, a mapping method was developed to combine infrequent, spatially dense watercraft surveys with continuous, spatially sparse in situ altimeter estimates of the seafloor location. In another set of seafloor perturbation experiments, channels were dredged across the surf zone with the propellers of a landing craft. Alongshore variations in wave breaking caused by the perturbed bathymetry resulted in strong rip currents in the channels under some conditions, whereas alongshore currents bypassed the channels under other conditions. The dynamics of the circulation response for changing wave forcing, bathymetry, and tidal elevation are investigated using the observations, a numerical model, and a parameter based on wave properties and bathymetry. by Melissa Moulton. Ph.D. 112 pages eng Massachusetts Institute of Technology M.I.T. theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission. http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582 Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering. Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Hydrodynamics Mathematical models Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic responses to surfzone seafloor perturbations Thesis application/pdf false Publication unknown unknown <Publication xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/1.1/" id="5f78e8ec-12a6-4479-8ae1-1da8c7312b16"> <Type xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/vocab/COAR_Publication_Types">http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_1843</Type> <Language>eng</Language> <Title>Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic responses to surfzone seafloor perturbations</Title> <PublishedIn> <Publication> </Publication> </PublishedIn> <PublicationDate>2016</PublicationDate> <Authors> <Author> <DisplayName>Moulton, Melissa (Melissa Root)</DisplayName> <Affiliation> <OrgUnit> </OrgUnit> </Affiliation> </Author> </Authors> <Editors> </Editors> <Publishers> <Publisher> <DisplayName>Massachusetts Institute of Technology</DisplayName> <OrgUnit /> </Publisher> </Publishers> <License>http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582</License> <Keyword>Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering.</Keyword> <Keyword>Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences.</Keyword> <Keyword>Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.</Keyword> <Abstract>Holes and channels were excavated in the surf zone on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, and observations of the subsequent evolution of waves, currents, and the modified seafloor were used to investigate nearshore dynamics. In one set of seafloor perturbation experiments, deep holes with steeply sloping sides were excavated in the inner surfzone seafloor. Observations of the infilling holes were used to make the first field estimates of the surfzone morphological diffusivity, which describes the rate of seafloor smoothing by downslope sediment transport. To improve the temporal resolution of bathymetric estimates, a mapping method was developed to combine infrequent, spatially dense watercraft surveys with continuous, spatially sparse in situ altimeter estimates of the seafloor location. In another set of seafloor perturbation experiments, channels were dredged across the surf zone with the propellers of a landing craft. Alongshore variations in wave breaking caused by the perturbed bathymetry resulted in strong rip currents in the channels under some conditions, whereas alongshore currents bypassed the channels under other conditions. The dynamics of the circulation response for changing wave forcing, bathymetry, and tidal elevation are investigated using the observations, a numerical model, and a parameter based on wave properties and bathymetry.</Abstract> <Access xmlns="http://purl.org/coar/access_right" > </Access> </Publication>