2026-09-19T23:49:34Zhttps://dspace.mit.edu/server/oai/requestoai:dspace.mit.edu:1721.1/343802022-01-13T07:54:23Zcom_1721.1_7582com_1721.1_7581col_1721.1_131023
Ole S. Madsen.
Gonzalez-Rodriguez, David, Ph. D. Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering.
Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering
2006-11-07T11:52:51Z
2006-11-07T11:52:51Z
2006
2006
http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/34380
70125444
Includes bibliographical references (p. 129-133).
Thesis (S.M.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2006.
This thesis analyzes and improves Tajima's (2004) nearshore hydrodynamic model. Tajima's simple model accurately predicts long-shore sediment transport along long, straight beaches, while cross-shore transport predictions differ from observations. A better prediction of cross-shore transport requires improvement of the hydrodynamic model. We first contrast Tajima's model with other hydrodynamic models. To improve the characterization of incident waves, we examine a number of joint probability distributions of wave heights and periods. These distributions are then used to develop a probabilistic wave-by-wave hydrodynamic description based on Tajima's monochromatic wave model. We derive the model governing equations for the unsteady case and detail their numerical implementation. This unsteady model is applied to study the effect of a wave beat normally incident on a plane sloping beach. We use this case to illustrate the relevance of the unsteady generalization to sediment transport calculations.
by David Gonzalez-Rodriguez.
S.M.
133 p.
5324981 bytes
5324767 bytes
application/pdf
application/pdf
eng
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
M.I.T. theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission.
http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582
Civil and Environmental Engineering.
Modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics for sediment transport calculations
Thesis
application/pdf
Publication
unknown
unknown
<Publication xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/1.1/" id="5f99f765-a2d3-4b7d-81ff-1c688667f0d3">
<Type xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/vocab/COAR_Publication_Types">http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_1843</Type>
<Language>eng</Language>
<Title>Modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics for sediment transport calculations</Title>
<PublishedIn>
<Publication>
</Publication>
</PublishedIn>
<PublicationDate>2006</PublicationDate>
<Authors>
<Author>
<DisplayName>Gonzalez-Rodriguez, David, Ph. D. Massachusetts Institute of Technology</DisplayName>
<Affiliation>
<OrgUnit>
</OrgUnit>
</Affiliation>
</Author>
</Authors>
<Editors>
</Editors>
<Publishers>
<Publisher>
<DisplayName>Massachusetts Institute of Technology</DisplayName>
<OrgUnit />
</Publisher>
</Publishers>
<License>http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582</License>
<Keyword>Civil and Environmental Engineering.</Keyword>
<Abstract>This thesis analyzes and improves Tajima's (2004) nearshore hydrodynamic model. Tajima's simple model accurately predicts long-shore sediment transport along long, straight beaches, while cross-shore transport predictions differ from observations. A better prediction of cross-shore transport requires improvement of the hydrodynamic model. We first contrast Tajima's model with other hydrodynamic models. To improve the characterization of incident waves, we examine a number of joint probability distributions of wave heights and periods. These distributions are then used to develop a probabilistic wave-by-wave hydrodynamic description based on Tajima's monochromatic wave model. We derive the model governing equations for the unsteady case and detail their numerical implementation. This unsteady model is applied to study the effect of a wave beat normally incident on a plane sloping beach. We use this case to illustrate the relevance of the unsteady generalization to sediment transport calculations.</Abstract>
<Access xmlns="http://purl.org/coar/access_right"
>
</Access>
</Publication>