2026-09-20T09:58:53Zhttps://dspace.mit.edu/server/oai/request

oai:dspace.mit.edu:1721.1/422192022-01-13T21:39:22Zcom_1721.1_7582com_1721.1_7581col_1721.1_131022

Britt Raubenheimer. Apotsos, Alex Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Joint Program in Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering 2008-09-03T14:55:44Z 2008-09-03T14:55:44Z 2007 2007 http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/42219 230937720 Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2007. Includes bibliographical references. Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum balance used to predict setup, a one-dimensional (1-D) model is developed that includes wave rollers and bottom stress owing to the mean offshore-directed flow. The model predicts setup accurately at three alongshore homogeneous field sites, as well as at a site where the incident wave field is alongshore non-uniform, suggesting that setup is driven primarily by the cross-shore (1-D) forcing. Furthermore, alongshore gradients of setup can be important to driving alongshore flows in the surfzone, and the 1-D setup model predicts these gradients accurately enough to simulate the observed flows. by Alex Apotsos. Ph.D. 145 p. eng Massachusetts Institute of Technology M.I.T. theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission. http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582 /Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering. Civil and Environmental Engineering. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Ocean waves Computer simulation Ocean wave power Setup in the surfzone Thesis application/pdf Publication unknown unknown <Publication xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/1.1/" id="71211cac-cdea-4d3b-8806-289f674e8338"> <Type xmlns="https://www.openaire.eu/cerif-profile/vocab/COAR_Publication_Types">http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_1843</Type> <Language>eng</Language> <Title>Setup in the surfzone</Title> <PublishedIn> <Publication> </Publication> </PublishedIn> <PublicationDate>2007</PublicationDate> <Authors> <Author> <DisplayName>Apotsos, Alex</DisplayName> <Affiliation> <OrgUnit> </OrgUnit> </Affiliation> </Author> </Authors> <Editors> </Editors> <Publishers> <Publisher> <DisplayName>Massachusetts Institute of Technology</DisplayName> <OrgUnit /> </Publisher> </Publishers> <License>http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582</License> <Keyword>/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering.</Keyword> <Keyword>Civil and Environmental Engineering.</Keyword> <Keyword>Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.</Keyword> <Abstract>Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum balance used to predict setup, a one-dimensional (1-D) model is developed that includes wave rollers and bottom stress owing to the mean offshore-directed flow. The model predicts setup accurately at three alongshore homogeneous field sites, as well as at a site where the incident wave field is alongshore non-uniform, suggesting that setup is driven primarily by the cross-shore (1-D) forcing. Furthermore, alongshore gradients of setup can be important to driving alongshore flows in the surfzone, and the 1-D setup model predicts these gradients accurately enough to simulate the observed flows.</Abstract> <Access xmlns="http://purl.org/coar/access_right" > </Access> </Publication>