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    • Mass Transport in Water Waves Part I: Theory 

      Mei, Chiang C.; Liu, Philip L-F. (Cambridge, Mass. Dept. of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1972-04)
      When a fluid is in periodic wave motion, a fluid particle is carried by a velocity field varying from place to place. At different instants the location of the particle differs and so does the velocity field in its immediate ...