On the choice of random wave simulation in the surf zone processes
Author(s)Yuan, Jing; Madsen, Ole S.
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In this paper, the two common approaches to account for wave randomness, the spectral approach and the wave-by-wave approach, are compared through numerical experiments conducted with the coupling of a surf zone hydrodynamic model and a bedload sediment transport model. Special attention is paid to the wave nonlinearity and net cross-shore bedload transport predictions. The two approaches are found to have negligible difference in their predictions of certain average hydrodynamics, such as wave heights, set-up and undertow. However, the wave-by-wave approach outperforms the spectral approach in the wave nonlinearity prediction, and the two approaches differ significantly in their predictions of wave-induced net cross-shore bedload transport which strongly depends on wave nonlinearity. This suggests the necessity of using the wave-by-wave approach. The computational efficiency of the wave-by-wave approach is also discussed.
DepartmentMassachusetts Institute of Technology. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering
Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering
Coastal Engineering Research Council
Yuan, Jing, and Ole S. Madsen. "On the choice of random wave simulation in the surf zone processes." Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering 32 (2010).
Author's final manuscript